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WHAT TO DO IN ST PETERSBURG ON A WET WEEK
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Posted by: vic2012

Catching the flight at London Heathrow to St. Petersburg seemed to confirm the problems I had been having having with this trip. The plane was now going without me! And, in a few hours, I was supposed to be meeting up with Viktorija at St. Petersburg (Pulkovo) Airport, as she was flying up from Omsk in Siberia.

A few days earlier I had problems trying to pay for a really great apartment that, I had found. My Maestro debit card was not being accepted. So, I was forced to send payment by Money Gram. When the agency confirmed the payment had been received, it was discovered that the apartment had been booked a few hours earlier, by someone else who, had paid for it by credit card. The omens were not looking good. And I still had a mountain of work to finish, before I could go. Problems were building up and time was running out.

It will be alright! was all I kept saying to myself.

So, the St. Petersburg Apartments agency found me another large, two room apartment. Not as nice, but they sweetened the pill by throwing in a connecting ‘granny’ apartment for free. It was still on Nevsky Prospekt about 2 kilometres down from the Hermitage. 70 Euros ($95) a night. Not bad.
http://www.saint-petersburg-apartme...s.en.cgi?id=125 and apt 126 if you're interested.

So, Thursday 8th March arrived and I would have to drive down to Heathrow before 5 a.m. the next morning. I ran over to Lowestoft, a bigger town and port, about half an hour away and spent a few hours shopping for essentials and presents that, I should have bought a week before and then I went to work. By nightfall, I was still working hard and hoping to be finished by midnight. At four the next morning I was still working! At four thirty, I dumped everything and dashed home. I wasn’t even packed. At five thirty, I was away. But disaster wasn’t long in arriving. I was making up for lost time when I hit a big traffic jam on the infamous M25 London orbital road, about 10 miles short of Heathrow.

The flight’s at 9.30 and 8.45 is when they would close it. It was now already 8.15 and I found myself outside the hotels on the airport perimeter.

Then the car just stopped. No fuel. I pushed it round the corner and to my great relief I found a recently vacated parking place. I grabbed my rucksack and, what turned out to be 30 kilos of baggage (full of presents and far too many clothes and shoes required for nine days) and, dragged the lot down the road, to the bus stop.

Why is it that, when you’re running late, the bus is running early? It catches every traffic signal and stops at every stop.

8.40. I’m in the airport at last, and manage to catch one of those roaming BA staff. Problem is, my ticket has not been issued yet. It’s paid for. But, the automated ticket machine wont recognise my debit card. So, it’s a dash to the ticket desk. Now, I’ve always lauded British Airways, as I’ve always had some great flights. But, some of the older ticketing staff don’t seem to give a toss. They seem oblivious of any rush or emergency and appear to have perfected the technique of being very helpfully unhelpful. It’s now gone 8.45 and I’m standing there, wearing a huge Parker coat (with fur trim), having dragged all my baggage across the concourse (because “you can’t leave it at the check in sir”) I’m covered in sweat. “Can I see your passport sir?.....Emmm….. I’ll just have to check with my manager that your visa is OK” Now she’s on the telephone.

“But you don’t need a visa to pick up a ticket” I complain…….Deaf ears! A guy comes out and calls me to the end of the counter. He checks my passport and has a good butchers at every page. Then confirms it’s OK. I turn round and the woman is now serving someone else! I stand there stewing, then get the beckoning, raised eyebrow, from another 'old hand' ticket agent, who had been sitting with a closed sign in front of her. My ticket is finally issued.

But, it’s far too late. Its 8.55 and the flight has long closed. I stand there working out whether I should now buy another ticket and go via Frankfurt or Prague or somewhere. And whether it is possible to do it all in a day? Whatever happens, she will be there before me and I haven’t slept, washed or shaved. I’m wringing wet in clothes that I put on 24 hours ago. Can it get any worse?

Then bang on cue, my guardian angel arrives!

The departures board changes and the gate number for St Pete’s turns into ‘Wait in Lounge’

Turns out, there’s a problem with the gate pier and the flight’s been delayed. I ask the roaming agent to check what is happening and lo & behold, she is able to re-open the flight, just for ME to check in! And then a few minutes later, as if by magic, the departure board comes up with the original gate number. So realising that, she has to close the flight again, she stops arguing about the extra luggage (Ł100!!! she wanted me to pay) And hands me the Boarding Pass. Feeling decidedly better, I take a leisurely stroll to the gate. But unfortunately, not fast enough to avoid a rather nasty phone call about the sh*t I left behind at work.

So I’m away. Strong tail wind and we actually arrive in St Pete's a few minutes early. I can’t fault BA flights. I’m stuck in row E (that’s a middle seat), but I still feel comfortable.

I have three and a half hours before Viktorija and her four year old arrives. I’ll go the agency, collect the keys, have a shower, shave and change and be back to meet her.

I walk out side the terminal and suddenly it’s all Taxi! Taxi! Taxi! I ask how much. 1800 rubles (that’s over $70). “HOW MUCH”???!!! I ask

Then another bit of fortune arrives. The lady, I had been sitting next to, on the flight, passes me and wishes me a good time. I ask her about transportation. She takes me about 20 yards to a bus stop where, the number 39 bus has just arrived. The taxi man, who thought that, he was negotiating with me, gives her a load of verbal, but she just waves her hand at him.

A fifteen minute journey on the 39 bus, for 10 rubles, gets me to the Moskovskaya Metro station. Then seven stops on the Metro for 12 rubles, gets me directly to Nevsky Prospekt. A grand total of 22 rubles (less than a dollar) and it took a little over half an hour. Believe it or not, that’s faster than a taxi takes. And, it wasn’t difficult, even with all my luggage. The sting in the tail was the 400 rubles it cost, to go the last 400 yards, by taxi, to the agency. I’ll talk about this later, but before I’ve opened my mouth anywhere, complete strangers start talking to me in English...."We have special price for YOU". Yes.... don't I know it! I even have to check my head now and again to see if there’s a flashing sign there!

The agency takes me to the apartment. It’s big, it’s tall and completely refurbished but somehow, when I booked it, they forgot to tell me, it’s on the fifth floor (160 steps!). However, with the other interconnecting apartment we now have two baths, two toilets and two king size beds.

I shower and get myself ready. I ask the agency about a taxi. They quote 1300 rubles for the round trip (about $50) I go for it. Personally, I’m happy slumming it on Public Transport, but not with her, her little boy, her luggage, at night and it’s raining.

Sadly, the taxi arrives late. She’s already arrived. And, as I stand on the concourse looking at the arrivals board, I feel a tap on the shoulder. Then it’s a big cuddle and it’s back to the apartment. Not a word passes my lips about the earlier trauma at Heathrow.

This is my sixth visit to meet her, but the first where we’ve vacated together. Hopefully our next meeting is scheduled to be in Moscow, in May, on her way to England!

Anyway, we didn't know it yet, but we have a wet week in store. But we sit and make a rough plan….What to see in St. Petersburg and how to get to all these places.

More tomorrow.

Posted by: bingism

Great start Vic

well... not a great start to the travel plans, but a great start to the story lol

Posted by: firemansam

Hey Vic!
Great way to give yourself an ulcer mate!!

Glad it all worked out int he end and it was a happy reunion.

Sam.

Posted by: bobjf

i'll join the others
good stuff mate,lol traveling is the pits

Posted by: Chrismc

Good story Vic...and you were moaning about a 9 hour car journey to meet us in Manchester that night, it was childs play compared to this one

hope things worked out OK in the end though!

Chris

Posted by: vic2012

Now, getting around St Petersburg is quite easy. Invest in a map for $2 and you're away. Better still get the map that says КАРТА С МАРШРУТАМИ ТРАНСПОРТА on the front and you get all the transportation routes added. We had great fun travelling on the trams and trolleybusses. (and knew where we were going)!

So first morning, The Hermitage.....where else for your first outing? The sky is grey and the weather is damp, but the temperature is about +5C We step outside the front door and there's a bus stop.

Immediately a small bus, number 187 turns up. Viktorija looks at the via points written on the side of the bus and says OK! Its packed but someone immediately gets up and gives me a seat. Yes, I know I'm getting on, but it was Ilya, the four years old that, I was carrying that got us the seat. 10 rubles, flat fare.

We look out of the steamy windows at all the shops along Nevsky. Wow, its like Oxford Street! Daks, Burberry, Bennetton, DNKY. They're all there. And, almost every other shop is a cafe, bistro or restaurant. The street is lined with huge 19th Century apartment blocks. Very impressive. And every now and again you cross a canal (Still frozen, but melting). Then the bus turns to head over the Neva river and suddenly this huge space appears with a massive column in the centre; Palace Square.

We jump off and take some long range photos, then head for the Hermitage entrance. Anyone who's been, will tell you, the Hermitage (or the Old Winter Palace) is so large, a day is not enough to look around. We go the ticket office. It's 350 rubles, but only 100 for Russians. Viktorija buys two Russian tickets. The woman glances at me through the little glass slit. I was standing there with Ilya and she starts pointing at me. Red faced Viktorija reaches into her purse for more money. First day and I've been rumbled already!

I forsaw this happening and had already given Viktorija 5000 rubles to pay for things.

It really is fantastically elaborate inside. We walked around, but we didn't hang about. Every time we stopped to look at something, the little four year old voice would ring out... Pyjum...Pyjum. ( something like... lets go).

The highlight for me, was up on the third floor. We walked through a series of large rooms full of Picassos. Matisses, Monets, Rembrants and Rubens. In fact, a who's who of the world's most famous artists. The amount of money hanging on those walls must be astronomical. I have my photo taken in front of a favourite picture of mine. Matisse's The Painter's Family. (I wont be getting the photos for a while, but I'll post a few later).

We head back in the afternoon on the 187 (this bus runs the entire length of Nevsky every two or three minutes and saved us a fortune).

We find the local supermarket and stock up (as we've got two fridges!)

I had bought a cheap little portable DVD player on Ebay for Ilya. But it packed up after an hour. So we had an early night.

Next day it was the Peter and Paul Fortress on the little island opposite the Hermitage. "We MUST be there by 12" I was told. But we didn't get out of the apartment till 11.30. We got the bus, went over the Neva, then our bus went in the opposite direction. So we jumped off and started to run. Now here's a funny thing. I noticed that, taxis are few and far between and, there's never one when you need one. So Viktorija holds out her arm and in just a few seconds a battered old Lada screeches to a halt. A little negotiation, the guy clears his rubbish off the back seat and five minutes and 200 rubles later we're there! We did this a few times during the week.

Anyway there's still a few hundred yards to go and it's 11.55. Whatever is going to happen will take place next to the Peter & Paul Cathedral in the middle of the huge fortification. So we run again (and Ilya is heavy). "Come on, we're nearly there" she calls, running in front of me. This really has to be something special. We spot a small group standing and looking up at the ramparts. We run up just as the clock strikes 12. Then I spot what's happening. There are some soldiers on the wall clustered round a big cannon. Suddenly there's a huge flash and a deafening bang. And. its all over!

I just stood there laughing in the rain. All that rush and it's over in a second.

The cathedral is beautiful with a multi-tiered spire and there's also five museums in the enclosure, which use the old Commandants house (where the entire history of life in Saint Petersburg is laid out...worth visiting), then the Engineers house and the Mint (where they still make Russian coin). This is the burial place of Peter the Great. This cost was 250 Rubles. And, you can spread it over a few days. We were to come back twice more.

By now, it was just spitting, so we braved the short walk to the Aurora. This is an old Russian Navy cruiser, built in 1893. Quite impressive; I actually thought it was a lot newer. It is famous as the starting point for the military insurrection that allowed Lenin to seize power in 1917. But it closed at 4 and, we were too late. But we bought Ilya an old Aurora Navy hat.

So, we walked back along the Neva embankment. It is a wonderful view. Then we stopped for a bite to eat.

Now, there's a two tier price structure at cafe's and restaurants. A couple a coffees and cakes will cost around 200 rubles. But 'up market' establishments will skank you for up to 500 rubles for the same food. We found out next day, to my cost that, in restaurants the differential can be very much greater!!!

More tomorrow (if you're still awake)

Posted by: Chrismc

Quote:

It's 350 rubles, but only 100 for Russians.

Yes I got done also

at the Tretyakov Gallery and St Basils in Moscow last week

same story.

Quote:

Pyjum...Pyjum. ( something like... lets go).

Pash Li = Lets Go!

Posted by: ira156

Good read Vic. Ah the ticket Babuskas...they can spot a foriegner at a 100 paces. They say that if you take one minute to look at each item in the Hermitage it will take 11 years to go around. I loved St Petes...Peterhof in Summer is just the most amazing place. It was a shame about the graffiti when i was there. Keep it coming Mate

Posted by: vic2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

Pyjum...Pyjum. ( something like... lets go)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrismc

Pash Li = Lets Go!

Chris, I think he was saying рой дум
But I cant find a translation for it (apart from something to do with bee hives). Pehaps someone knows?

Posted by: Dave_N_Elvira

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

Now, getting around St Petersburg is quite easy. Invest in a map for $2 and you're away. Better still get the map that says КАРТА С МАРШРУТАМИ ТРАНСПОРТА on the front and you get all the transportation routes added. We had great fun travelling on the trams and trolleybusses. (and knew where we were going)!

Mate,
You should have headed up to the information centre near the hermitage. Could have got the lot for free. Came out with a huge wad of pamphlets, maps and the likes when I went there.

Posted by: deccie

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

By now, it was just spitting, so we braved the short walk to the Aurora. This is an old Russian Navy cruiser, built in 1893. Quite impressive; I actually thought it was a lot newer. It is famous as the starting point for the military insurrection that allowed Lenin to seize power in 1917. But it closed at 4 and, we were too late. But we bought Ilya an old Aurora Navy hat.

I saw the Aurora from a distance, she looked to me like a typical WWI vintage light cruiser. It is one of my goals to get a closer look but Ksenia isn't interested in this male oriented stuff! I am hoping to persuade her to add it to the list of venues we visit on the wedding day. (-:

I would also love to get a look at the Military Museum (saw it as we sailed by on a river cruise) and some of the mass graves still around the city.

Learning more about the seige that St Petersburg went through is defintely a must. There is just absolutely nothing in Australian history that comes close to what these places went through.

Posted by: vic2012

Yes, Dave & Elvira
this is just the sort of information I wish I had had, before I went.

This was a very interesting and enjoyable trip. So, I've tried to add some information to the story (like bus numbers!), to give other people, who are planning a similar trip, the oportunity to benefit from what we discovered.

Anyone who's been to St Petes is welcome to add info to this thread. I will definitely be returning.

Deccie,
We went back to the Aurora four times! Like I said, Viktorija was far more interested than I was. For her this was living history.
But it is well worth a visit (even for 15 minutes).

Posted by: vic2012

Well the first weekend's gone and we decide to be a bit more leisurely. The apartment's been like a furnace. Like most Russian homes, there no control. If it's too hot, you just open the window! But, at least we have a balcony, where we can stand outside and watch the traffic.
Ilya has taken to sitting on my shoulders, when we're out. But the 160 steps up to the apartment, with him on top is some effort. I smile through gritted teeth at the top, as she complements me on my fitness. But the old ticker's going ten to the dozen.

In fact, the apartment's very good. The girls at the agency are very helpful and I think I really did OK with it. And it sure beats ANY hotel. It's got lovely parquet flooring and while mum's not around, I teach Ilya to run half way across the room and slide the rest of the way.

It's getting on for midday again. So,we get the bus a few stops along Nevsky and go shopping (well window shopping). It's still drizzly and damp. Then we find ourselves looking down a street towards the circus. Yep...tickets for Friday evening (Ł8 ($16) each. Not particularly cheap for a few rows back from the ring). Then I decide I want to go on a tram. And one (#3) goes almost all of the way back to the Aurora, which we missed the day before. Viktorija was none to pleased as we stood in the drizzle for more than 10 minutes waiting for the tram. Finally it comes slowly clanking along and sails past us!!! We are at the bus stop. The tram stop (with a little picture of a tram) is a hundred yards further on. So Viktorija sticks her hand out and in seconds an old Volga pulls up. 250 rubles for a mile or so. We get to the Aurora and the entrance is chained up. The guard says it's closed on Mondays!! So it's back to the Peter and Paul for another couple of museums. If you're really intersted in the history of St. Petersburg and of the Tsars. This place has it all. And in the St.Catherine chapel are the newly laid remains of Tsar Nicholas II and his family.

It's late afternoon and starting to snow now. So we find a taxi and, on the way back, we decide to eat out. The driver recommends a restaurant close to were we're living. It’s quite nice, and a few tables are taken up with small groups of business men.
A business lunch is 450 rubles ($18. Not bad) But Viktorija decides to eat 'a la carte' and I join her. It was a nice meal, but the bill was over 3000 rubles (without drinks). I pay the bill without a murmur. In fact it was the first and last restaurant we ate at. She didn't say anything at the time, but she was horrified. That night she quietly cooks up a load of chicken and stock and puts it in the fridge.

The Aurora's on the cards for the next day. But first we go to the Saviour on the Spilt Blood. By now I'm remembering where to go without the map. This is a spectacular memorial building to the assassinated Alexander II, just off of Nevsky. Then it became a church and in 1930 was closed and fell into disrepair. It then became a warehouse. Everywhere inside is spectacular mosaic. And, since 1970 to the virtually the present day, the whole building has been painstakingly restored. Definitely worth visiting. Outside, a guy dressed as an old king invited us to have a photo taken with him and his ’queen’. So we took a picture. Then they went into another pose with Ilya and this went on for eight or nine pictures. Then it turns out, it costs 50 rubles a shot, to have them in your photo. Not much change out of 10 quid then! (If you spot these panto people around ...you've been warned!).

There's a lovely park next the the church and on the other side is the road with the #3 tram. I persude Viktorija to give it another go. We stroll accross the park and this time the tram comes almost immediately. And we set off, once again, for the Aurora. It's open at last and it‘s free.

Viktorija has her ’Titanic’ photo taken at the bow. But there wasn’t a lot else to see. Loads of pictures of the 1917 crew and their service records. But, she was far more interested than I was and spent a good hour looking around. And then we made a big mistake. A real old boy (looked like he was on his last legs), his chest covered in navy serving ribbons, offered to show us around the engine room. It was only 80 rubles each. After a few more had joined the group we went below. Down one set of stairs, then we stopped while he described everything, very slowly, in great detail, in Russian. The 30 yard tour took 45 minutes!!! When we emerged. the ship was closed and because Viktorija had not seen everything, she wants to come back yet again!!

I now wanted to go the Museum of the Political Police on Nevsky. Sounded interesting. But, she wants to go home. But, this is just one of 75 Museums listed in St Petersburg. So, we’re not going to run short of anything to do!
Oh... and that evening she knocks up a super borsht with a great dollop of Smetana in the middle. She’s really not a bad cook.

More tomorrow.

Posted by: stevo

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

Chris, I think he was saying đîé äóě
But I cant find a translation for it (apart from something to do with bee hives). Pehaps someone knows?

Could it have been ďîéä¸ě?

ps I hope you're going to tell us you went to the Kunstkamera!

Posted by: Chrismc

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

Chris, I think he was saying рой дум
But I cant find a translation for it (apart from something to do with bee hives). Pehaps someone knows?

I translate that as Belarus House ??

Posted by: Chrismc

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vic

A business lunch is 450 rubles ($18. Not bad

Last week in Moscow the Business lunches were about the same price, in Ufa they were around 300 - 350 Rubles for the same type of meal.

Posted by: Cheburashka

I think you guys are talking about the verb : po edyom. If I remember correctly it means to leave by walking.

Posted by: bingism

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrismc

Last week in Moscow the Business lunches were about the same price, in Ufa they were around 300 - 350 Rubles for the same type of meal.

300-350!!! Should've asked... I know a couple of great places for 150 a head...

Posted by: Chrismc

Quote:

Originally Posted by bingism

300-350!!! Should've asked... I know a couple of great places for 150 a head...

Now you tell me

but it did include wine at one of them

Posted by: vic2012

Chris
Got the Pyjum thing sorted. Cheb was right.

ПОЙДЁМ is the command: Lets Go!

What you said is the same, but is just a request or statement.

Posted by: vic2012

Next morning I knock up a traditional English fry-up. I find some frozen pork and beef sausages (the sausages in the supermarket chiller cabinet seem to be all variants of frankfurters). I find some American style bacon (very thinly sliced smoked streaky), eggs for an omelette and mushrooms. Surprisingly, Viktorija has never had a breakfast like this and wants me to do it again.

I look outside and can see BLUE SKY. So, it’s going to be St Isaacs today. And we’re going to climb to the colonnade for a view of the whole of St Petersburg (that’s the walkway around the outside of the dome). This is the most expensive entrance to date. 450 rubles ($18) (that’s 300 for the cathedral and 150 for the climb)

We start with the colonnade. Fortunately Ilya wants to do the climb himself. It turned out to be only 221 stairs, but they’re pretty steep and continuous. Still tiring. We emerge on one of the corner towers and take another 50 stairs up to the dome.

The view is really amazing, you can walk round 360°, but we only get a couple of photos, as Viktorija forgot to charge up her camera. Shame, because these few hours were all we were to see of the sun in nine days!! (I'm marking your card here guys, because this is one excursion you MUST do). Anyway, she decides that, we will come back in a day or so to take some more photos (big mistake, when we returned, it was cold, bleak and very very windy).

There are some great views past the Hermitage and over the Neva. But, even though it was sunny and were wrapped up warm, after 10 minutes we felt pretty cold, so we came down to look at the Cathedral.

Now this is another 'must see'. The decor is so rich, it takes your breath away. In fact, I have never seen anything like it. And. the amount of detail is unbelievable. The architect who designed it started it in 1817 and finished in 1858, then died a few weeks later. This is one of those places you cannot describe easily. You just HAVE to see it. Some of the mosaic tableau are mounted at floor level and, are on display around the cathedral. You can touch them and marvel at their intricacy. The bronze doors weigh a few tons and took two years to make. You can just go on and on with staggering statistics about this place.

We did eventually leave and walked south, down towards the Sadovaya market. Slightly off the tourist trail, this big intersection has a number of markets. We buy loads of DVDs (they seem genuine and are between 75 and 150 rubles each). Viktorija buys a number of books and some jigsaws for Ilya. Then Ilya gets a big treat. We go on the Metro (there’s none in Omsk, yet). Its very deep and the escalators are extremely long and move fast. Its only one stop to Nevsky then a change to line 3 and one more stop to near home. When we emerge Ilya gets very upset. It was all over too fast for him. This was the highlight of his trip!

Thursday was raining. We stayed home to watch some films. There’s been no hot water since yesterday. But, fortunately there’s an emergency emersion heater in the apartment (remember this when you’re booking an apartment; our water was off for three days!). So I plug it in. Viktorija and Ilya want a bath. So we heat up pans of water using the hobs in both apartments. You can guess what’s coming! Bang. Now we’ve got no electricity either. We’ve managed to blow the main fuse outside the apartment. The agency send their odd-job man round. Waste of space. He fiddles with our fuse box, but cant work out that, there’s no juice coming into the apartment at all. He pushes off and they call up the ’Master’. I love these job titles. They’ve died out in the UK

Problem is, by late afternoon, he’s still not come. It’s getting dark. So I get a ladder, go outside and climb up to the distribution box. The electric company’s seals are already broken (what a surprise) and the lock on the box is busted too. So I open it and take out the big fuse, repair it and we’re back in business. No way I could do that back home (this is what they remove when you don’t pay your bill).

So, a whole day has slipped away and we did sweet FA. But it was so nice just being together as a family. I go to bed very happy.

Last instalment tomorrow

(if there’s anyone left reading this).

Posted by: Chrismc

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

Chris
Got the Pyjum thing sorted. Cheb was right.

ПОЙДЁМ is the command: Lets Go!

What you said is the same, but is just a request or statement.

OK I am glad we cleared that up! I didn't sleep last night worrying about it

however, Lets Go is the same as Lets Go in my book? I suppose it depends on how you actually say it, like a lot of statements

Posted by: deccie

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

But it was so nice just being together as a family. I go to bed very happy.

Last instalment tomorrow

(if there’s anyone left reading this).

There very defintely is! Thanks Vic!
Though I will have to wait until Sunday to read it as I have no phone or internet on at home yet. (One of my wake up calls of moving to Oman)

You have defintely got me to add St Isaacs to my next trip to St Pete's.

Posted by: Chrismc

[quote=Vic]Last instalment tomorrow (if there’s anyone left reading this)./quote]

Still here Vic

St Petes sounds great, that is a must see for me in the next year or so. Good report and gives me plenty of ideas of what to do, but hopefully when I go it will be with a RW who knows here way around, one is already pencilled in as my guide

Posted by: vic2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chrismc

OK I am glad we cleared that up! I didn't sleep last night worrying about it

Sorry Chris. I should have got it right first time. After all, I had a four year old barking this command at me, more than five hundred times during the trip!

Posted by: vic2012

I’m becoming a real ‘hairy’ (that’s a bus spotter). I know all the different routes in the area now. Today it’s the #22 trolleybus to St. Isaacs. It goes from door to door (except we stay on board for one stop too long and end up miles past the cathedral, well....a few hundred yards anyway). We discovered that travelling along Nevsky on a trolleybus can be very slow, because at every junction, it cannot get past the queues of cars waiting to turn right.

The weather is quite nippy. Its actually about +3C. But, there’s a really chilly wind!!!

So, here we are, back at St Isaacs. Another 150 rubles each and we climb the long spiral stairs again and go out onto the colonnade. What a difference. There’s only three other people up there this time and the wind is making such a noise, it’s difficult to hear. We manage to take a few pictures. But, after just one circuit, it's straight back down. Believe me, this visit is best done in calm, sunny conditions.

So now we walk across Decembrists Square and up to the Neva. There’s lots of tourists here taking photos. We spot an Aladdin clad character coming our way for a photo opportunity. Remembering what happened last time, we quickly give him a wide berth. Then we embark on our longest walk of the trip. At least it’s not raining, but it's blustery. We walk along the embankment to the Hermitage; then over the bridge to Vasilevsky Island and on over the next bridge into Petrograd Side. We walk as far as the Peter & Paul fortress and then up to the Zoo (about 400 yards up from the embankment).

I think entry was about 300 rubles. It was very pleasant visit. You can see that, a lot of the zoo is pretty ancient. But they’re spending some money on it and the modern bits are very good (especially the aquaria). But out in the open, it's still cold and miserable. So, no kids funfair or petting corner. There’s a good selection of animals. Definitely worth a visit if you’re with kids. Ilya liked the reptile house best, but I found some of the tanks worryingly small for their large occupants. Anyway, at 7pm its the circus. So we walk round to the Metro station.

Its just one stop back to Nevsky and a 15 minute walk. Half way we stop for a bite to eat. Their clock’s a bit slow. So once again, we find our selves running. They’re ringing the third bell as we arrive. We just get into our seats and the show starts. Some of the acts were a little amateurish. The circus in Omsk was better. However, the clowns were among the best I‘ve seen and I was laughing along with everyone else. Viktorija and Ilya really enjoyed the whole show. So I guess it is a traditional Russian thing and something you can safely take your RW to.

Anyway. its a taxi home. Its been a long day (and a lot of walking with Ilya on my shoulders); I’m quite tired.

Now we've reached the last full day. We look at the Museum book and talk about where to go. This book was invaluable and is available at many outlets. It’s pocket sized (A5), in English and is called: St. Petersburg Museums. A Short Guide. However, Viktorija still wants to return to the Aurora and there's still an unused part of the Peter & Paul fortress ticket to be used up.

The morning's practically gone, so we get the bus along Nevsky, change onto the tram and we’re soon back at the Aurora. After 15 minutes or so, we're done. As we are leaving, we get an invite to tour the bridge for 80 rubles. Remembering the protracted tour of the engine room, I get Viktorija to ask if we can have the 'five minute tour'. And, that's what we get! (worth remembering). It was quite interesting. I was surprised how little floor space there is on the bridge. You have to squeeze yourself around all the equipment. A couple a pictures with the wheel and the engine room speed controller and the Aurora's finally done.

Then back to finish off Peter & Paul. And then the short walk to the Metro, to go back to Sadovaya market to buy some bits and pieces we saw previously, for Ilya. I mentioned before about the DVD's available here. You can buy really cheap copies and discs with up to 10 films on them! But these have had all the foreign sound and subtitles removed. I ended up with Jack Nicholson in As Good as it Gets, solely in Russian! But I tell you, its great to shop, knowing there's no-one out to skank you on the price. Unlike next day, when we visit the souvenir market!

Its starting to feel like the end of the trip and I find myself a little bit depressed. We eat in a bistro and its back to the apartment.

I call the agency about when we have to leave next day. The small apartment has been booked and we have to be out of there by midday. But we've never really used it, apart from the loo (which was three doors away from our main living area. Handy, when you've consumed strange food and that yellowy water.....if you get my drift). But we can keep the large apartment till 3.

Next morning we start to pack. The place looks like a bomb's hit it! I feel sad, as I put her stuff in one pile and mine in another. We're not finished packing until 1 o' clock. A woman comes to start cleaning the place. So we go out.

We find a taxi and get a rate of 1300 rubles ($50) to take us around for an hour and then to Pulkovo international and finally on to the domestic airport terminal. We drive off, back to the Saviour on the Spilt Blood, where there's a whole market place full of souvenir stalls. We split up for half an hour. I've long since realised that, I have an invisible flashing sign on my forehead, which is clearly visible to any Russian souvenir or ticket seller. Approaching any stall together, means we're up for the 'special prices'! Viktorija finishes off, then its back to the apartment to collect the all luggage and then finally to the airport.

We've already parted five times at Omsk airport over the last year (including once, when I thought it was all over). But this time seemed more poignant. I was really quite choked up. I think, the fact that, she was about to fly off in completely the opposite direction to my flight, made the separation more heartbreaking.

Saint Petersburg was a real eye opener. Like I said before, I will definitely be returning, as we only scratched the surface. There's another 70 museums and sights, like the Peter the Great Museum, which I would like to have seen.

However, It really has been the most wonderful holiday.

Posted by: vic2012

In addition to the story of my trip with Viktorija and Ilya, I tried to include lots of helpful information, which I hope you can use when you travel to the magical city of St. Petersburg.

If you’ve been before, feel free to add any helpful tips to this thread.

Over & out!

Posted by: Chrismc

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

In addition to the story of my trip with Viktorija and Ilya, I tried to include lots of helpful information, which I hope you can use when you travel to the magical city of St. Petersburg.

If you’ve been before, feel free to add any helpful tips to this thread.

Over & out!

A great TR Vic...very well written and lots of good advice and tips, I hope to be going to SPb sometime soon myself and it will all come in handy.

Chris

Posted by: stevo

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

Got the Pyjum thing sorted. Cheb was right.

Posted by: deccie

Vic,
I really enjoyed your TR - thanks.

I like going to St Pete's. Not least of course because there is a lovely lady waiting there for me - but I enjoy the city itself too.

The only thing I found wearing in the winter was that the air pollution got to me a lot more.

Posted by: vic2012

Thanks Chris & Deccie for your nice comments.

I live out in the clean air of the country, miles from any city. I didn't notice any significant polution problem in St.Petes. Except that familiar, lingering, Eastern Block smell of very low octane fuel being burnt. LOL!

However, I am a bit disappointed that, this thread did nor generate more info. Many people have been, but only Dave & Elvira posted about free literature.

Viktorija and I cant wait to go back. And we would have welcomed some more 'insider' knowledge posted on this thread (which will now fade into the annals of RMP)

Victor

Posted by: ira156

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2012

Thanks Chris & Deccie for your nice comments.

I live out in the clean air of the country, miles from any city. I didn't notice any significant polution problem in St.Petes. Except that familiar, lingering, Eastern Block smell of very low octane fuel being burnt. LOL!

However, I am a bit disappointed that, this thread did nor generate more info. Many people have been, but only Dave & Elvira posted about free literature.

Viktorija and I cant wait to go back. And we would have welcomed some more 'insider' knowledge posted on this thread (which will now fade into the annals of RMP)

Victor

Hey Vic. I found ST petes to be the most tourist oriented city of the 4 i saw i Russia. There was heaps of stuff at the hotels ect and there were tourist "helpers" dressed in red if i remember right that spoke very good english and had heaps of info and were eager to help. They were walking up and down Nevsky Prospect at all hours.

Posted by: deccie

I guess I can't add too much because tourism was never my reason for going so even though Ksenia and I went and saw some features of the city (like Peterhof and Pushkin) I was never focused on getting around. Apart from not being able to read the signs I found St Petersburg no different to getting around than any other large city..

Some "added" features I can talk about:

1. Last trip I used a taxi company 6,000,000 (that is there phone number) to get to the airport for the very reasonable price of 1000 rubles. This was from Ksenia's flat which is a long distance away. It used to take us about 1.5 hours to get there by car.

I found my GSM roaming worked in Russia for SMS only (both send and receive.)

If your airline loses your bags be prepared for a MOUNTAIN of paperwork.

Really, other than that it was the same as any other large city.. I went to the supermarket many times on my own to buy stuff.. I am lucky it is very close to Ksenia's flat.

Posted by: Dave_N_Elvira

St Pete’s is great. Been there twice for a total of 6 weeks and still have a lot I would like to see. Forget the Trolley Buses. Caught them once only. Horrible things. Use the vans instead. Smaller and seat around 12 people. You simply flag them down at bus stops when you see them driving up the road. Costs about 15 rouble each and they go all over the place. Caught one from Nevsky Prospect to Pushkin. Beat the 500 rouble coach price LOL!

One of the main things I really like about it is the ease in getting around with public transport. Had no problems getting from A to B. If you go to Petergof in the summer spend the extra dough to go on the Catamaran. Only way to travel there and quick as well. About 400 roubles a head I think for the round trip.

Posted by: stevo

Natasha and I spent a few days in St Petersburg last summer on our way to Syktyvkar. I would definitely recommend the Kunstkamera (which I briefly mentioned earlier) for its famous exhibition of anatomical oddities.

<- not actual size

Peter the Great established the museum to show that birth defects were a natural occurrence rather than the result of "diabolic interference". Not for the faint of heart, although I was somewhat taken aback by the small children perusing all these gruesome exhibits without so much as batting an eyelid.

Posted by: Dave_N_Elvira

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevo

Peter the Great established the museum to show that birth defects were a natural occurrence rather than the result of "diabolic interference". Not for the faint of heart, although I was somewhat taken aback by the small children perusing all these gruesome exhibits without so much as batting an eyelid.

Remember the Kuntskamera well. When in there with the boss, Elly said how horrible it is and I turned to her and said “It’s not too bad. In my country we have a saying. Two heads are better than one.” Took a few seconds to click with her and then she was in hysterics laughing. Once she stopped laughing naturally she chastised me for such an awful joke

Posted by: Raspberry

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevo

Natasha and I spent a few days in St Petersburg last summer on our way to Syktyvkar. I would definitely recommend the Kunstkamera (which I briefly mentioned earlier) for its famous exhibition of anatomical oddities.

Sounds an awful lot like the "Bodies" exhibition here in Seattle.